Bags...The battered the better?
The cachet of cool in 2025
Someone was asking me recently if I had any style related goals for 2025, and after thinking about it, I actually do have one. It’s to stop babying my fancy bags.
I like to think on a scale 1-10, 10 being babied to the max, and 1 being thrown about without giving two shits at the possibility of damage, I probably fall somewhere around a 7. If I spend a lot of money on an item I want to take care and prolong the life of it as best as possible, but I also don’t want to keep it locked up in a glass cabinet, never to be used.
When I see photos of the Olsen twins carrying beaten up Hermes Kelly’s there is a certain nonchalance that I can’t deny, reads as effortless and care free, but (while I haven’t seen the Olsens bank balance) I’m going to assume they can afford to be a little more ‘care free’ than most.
My obsession with the Coach soft carry all 40 was sparked by the distressed versions that walked the runway. The idea being Coach wanted to celebrate something being worn and loved, and after 328 days of a no buy wardrobe challenge that truly is something I can get behind.
Wearing my things, like really wearing them, continues to be a goal for my wardrobe in 2025, as much as it was in 2024. It’s bought me a lot of joy, but when I think of my beloved Kelly, I find myself pondering if I have the courage to see her wear to the extent of a battered Olsen kelly?
My vintage Hermes Kelly is already over 30 years old, and because she’s in such incredible condition I can’t help thinking she either didn’t see much use, or whoever owned her previously took immense care of her, to the point of babying it.
I find myself wondering, is it the fact that the Olsens can afford to batter their bags what people who can’t are trying to emulate? Has that become the true symbol of status and wealth, owning a bag as expensive as a Hermes Kelly while proudly wearing it beaten to a pulp and bursting at the seams?
I have it insured, and I use an insert inside to maintain the shape, but even Dave jokes that he can’t relax when I take the bag out with me because he knows how much it’s worth.
It’s one of the reasons that I buy most of my designer bags preloved where possible because I’m less likely to baby them when they aren’t brand spanking new. There’s something overwhelming about opening the box of a brand new item and inspecting it only to accidentally catch your nail on the soft fresh leather. Mortifying!
I bought that bag knowing it was a great investment from a resale point of view, especially because vintage box leather retourne 32 kelly’s are becoming increasingly hard to find in good condition. Some people buy art, cars, fancy watches, some people invest in the stock market, I bought a Hermes Kelly because it was something I had always loved. I don’t believe why I bought it needs justifying and that’s not the point of this article, but I can’t lie it has been fascinating thinking of all the ridiculous scenarios I need to protect it from, on top of the very possible ones.
For instance (and I am exaggerating a little here), Should I put her to bed at night in a waterproof bag in case we have a random flash flood? If i’m away and leave it at home should I put it in a place where the walls won’t fall in on it? I know this sounds ridiculous and this is where many would argue it isn’t worth having a bag this expensive if it causes this much anxiety, but the joy she brings me far outweighs the anxiety and the back and forth on how much to baby, or not baby it? After all, it was my most worn bag of 2024.
Even if no one knew I owned a kelly or ever saw me wear it, i’m still convinced I would enjoy wearing it, I would still appreciate the incredible craftsmanship and design. I would still experience an unfathomable amount of joy owning it.
At a time when people are arguing about the Walmart Birkin, It’s not lost on me that buying a bag of a certain value already puts me into the camp of out of touch, and ridiculous in some people’s eyes. And it’s here again where I find myself so tempted to over explain and justify my decision for buying said bag, but the truth is I don’t owe anyone an explanation.
I think deep down, there’s a small part of me that sometimes believes I’m not worthy of a bag that cost that much; the young assistant makeup artist who remembers being in masses amount of debt and living paycheck to paycheck who could never of justified owning a bag like that. She bought designer fakes because she dreamed of owning the real thing. As someone who grew up in the girlboss era, she wanted to indulge in the fantasy of being the type of person who could afford a designer bag.
I can see eighty year old Harry wearing that bag. I want to pass it down to my niece one day. I know full well I’ll be ok if that doesn’t happen, but if things are meant to be used and enjoyed, what am I so afraid of? What’s the point of having nice things if you don’t use them?
We are all worthy of nice things, but believing we are worthy of nice things is incredibly complex, because even if we are currently in a position to buy something of a certain price, many of us are also having to do the mental gymnastics of what if one day our life circumstances change? The money I make changes? All of which are possible scenarios. (Not going to lie, I still see my wardrobe as my emergency fund.)
When I see someone with a bag (irrelevant of price point or label) one that is irrevocably loved, I get the sense of someone who is really living, and making memories. It’s the patina, the marks, the slouch that adds to an outfit, and what signifies someone who has a sense of style that isn’t led by trends or fads. I see it as a celebration of longevity. Seeing someone with a battered bag shows me they use their things and they are more concerned with being in the moment than someone who is hanging their bag off of a handbag hook on a table or putting a raincoat over it.
I remember seeing a TikTok where someone joked about how they always ask for an extra chair in restaurants for their Kelly, and I was equal parts horrified and impressed. I find myself in the duality of wanting to take care of the items in my wardrobe and truly use them. Both can be true.
Buying a box leather bag is considered the worst choice of leather if you don’t want to get it marked, but the way box leather (vintage especially) speaks to me is like my own private bird song. It makes me weak at the knees.xxx Look, some people get excited by the Jonas Brothers, I get excited by fine leathers, and beautiful stitching. We all have our vices!
Even when I look at vintage Kellys’ on TRR that are listed as fair condition or sold as is, I still think they look incredibly beautiful and in many ways even more so because of their patina. Because of their ‘worness’ they possess a quality that is hard to find in brand new bags. ‘Worness’ has become the cachet of cool. But do I only believe that because the Olsen twins for example, two incredibly wealthy people are demonstrating that the more beaten the bag, the cooler it is? Knowing full well they can replace said item easier than most. When you have a room full of nice things, and money is no object, are you less likely to baby certain items? Maybe, probably.
But if you don’t have endless amounts of cash lying around, or say easy access to a Hermes bag any time you want one (which at this moment in time I don’t), it makes sense why you might like the idea of the battered Kelly in theory, but in practice, a part of you will struggle to get on board.
I’m curious to know your thoughts? Do you baby your bags, and if so why?
Thank you for reading
Harry x
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I do not get beating up a handbag for sake of a “look.” While I’m not overly precious with things, I take good care of everything in my closet. I love the ceremony of defuzzing a sweater, polishing a boot, using a lint brush on blazers, hand washing vs dry cleaning and much more. I keep shoes in their boxes, fold sweaters, hang denim and use garment bags for coats. Handbags get filled with fabric (old pillow cases) to keep their shape and stored in their dust bags. If I notice dirt or a stain, I clean/polish it.
It shows respect to the piece! And it shows respect to myself and the money I spent.
I, too, share this problem. I have a collection of bags, and some of them I haven't even worn in fear of ruining them somehow. Also, I often question my sanity in having purchased several gorgeous suede bags when I live in one of the rainiest cities in the world. I also took a brand new bag I purchased on a quick work trip as an airplane carryon, only to do get the slightest scratch on the front. It's noticeable only to me, and I'm trying to overcome the "of course it will get a scratch when you use it" mentality and shift to "use it more, get more scratches, enjoy the bag you pursued for two years."
I think what makes the battered luxe bag "cool" is that the simple reason that it can't be procured. I've never seen an Hermes bag for sale that looks quite like the ones in the photos, and it adds a certain uniqueness to the bag indicative of how the owner has worn it, making it ever more unique. Coupled with its "effortlessness" it is the perfect combo of "effortless" and "impossible to replicate."
I, too, buy my bags pre-loved as much as possible (the number of new bags I've actually bought is actually quite small). I think if I were to embrace the battered bag look, I'd have to start with something that was already in fair condition and go from there. But getting over the mental block is still a bit of a hurdle. Especially for something from Hermes.
I do think that some bags to me are a work of art, and perhaps I didn't buy them to wear, I bought them to enjoy visually, like a painting. I have a bag that I just realized is very reminiscent of your Kelly (it was also a special edition collaboration and can't be purchased anymore and rarely shows up preloved, so to me it is irreplaceable), and yet I've somehow never even worn it. It still looks pristine, tucked away in the original box awaiting her debut. In my defense, however, I really do enjoy looking at the bag every so often, even if I don't feel compelled to wear her in public until the specialness of the occasion matches the bag in equal measure. And yet, I couldn't bear to part with her, if someone were to rationalize with me, "you haven't worn this, it's in a big huge box taking up a bunch of space....declutter!"
I have also realized that even though I am no longer enamored with a bag, there may be a time in the future when its time might come back around. I have been thinking about all of the bags I've sold in the past and why, as the impulse to repurchase some of them has popped up yet again as some designers have started bringing back some of those it bags from the past. I think the older battered editions show a certain coolness of "I was cool back then too, which means I've always been cool."
I think this year I'm going to start with making it a challenge simply to wear each bag in my closet at least once this year and if I don't, really think about it's intended purpose. If a bag is just too precious to me to consider wearing, does it belong in my closet at all?
Perhaps only to be admired, like an indoor private sculpture garden....and that just might be okay if I can make peace with it (storage space permitting).